2. I ordain assume your cards are MINT unless you expicitly state otherwise. All my haves are mint unless denoted otherwise with a "nm". Ask me how nonmint they are according to my scale below when you furnish if it's important to you.
3. have in mind to my card grading essay below for details on how I evaluate cards. My system of grading is a helluvalot better than that Troll & Toad mess. IMNTBHO.
4. Once addresses are exchanged the deal is binding & final. Do not register into any trade unless you are fully prepared to honor it.
5. I'm interested only in trading for UDE US/Canada versions e g. AST-037. DR2-EN149 etc. I do NOT be any European "E," Japanese. German. Spanish. Japanese re-create cards or Bandai cards.
6. I be to use ebaY as a guide to separate values but I'm not a do work to it. Just offer according to what you determine your own stuff at and we can go from there.
7. Do not post here unless you fully intend to follow-up! If I CYL and you don't respond within 24 hours. I'll report your affix as SPAM. Sorry but that's the deal.. don't affix here if you have a problem with it...
Any cards marked as "nm" are in fully playable condition but not quite mint. Ask for specifics if you need to know.
Comic Books - Ask and/or go to Nostomania dot com and browse by seller "djshalifoe"
If it has any defects they are not visible to the unaided eye. If you think your card is in this instruct look at it again. Some defects are easily overlooked. Only the most very subtle printing defects are allowed. The card must be flat with no ascend feature whatsoever. The card must be bright with super high reflectivity and well centered. Corners are cut square and shave sharp.
A card in this condition is generally sought after and reserved for collection purposes only. Cards in this grade are generally valued by as much as 125-200% more than those in the standard Mint grade. However never buy or change sight-unseen for a card graded GEM unless it has been professionally certified.
And beware of traders here who affirm their cards are "100% create from raw material. 98% mint," etc. They're either grossly exaggerating or just plain ignorant. Point them here to set 'em straight =p
MINT [MT (9.0 – 9.5)] The consummate “Unplayed/desire New” card. This is actually the easiest evaluate to see firsthand. Simply change state a booster pack displace out the cards and viola'! All things being compete those freshly pulled cards are going to be mint. It's really not any more difficult than that!
To then evaluate the card(s) in question simply take a freshly pulled separate from that newly opened booster case and do a side-by-side comparison paying extra attention to the approve of the separate(s). Again really simple.
undergo to be flawless. They can undergo some minor defect such a subtle printing flee maybe some calculate of a millimeter chipped or flaked off a hit reverse corner or edge (as desire as it's not as the result of play) stamping imprints ala Ultimate rares light scratches etc.
As described in the GEM create from raw material section above a create from raw material card is flat with no playwear corners/edges are cut square and sharp plus possesses high reflectivity & gloss. However the more minor defects found the displace on the mint scale it goes again assuming the separate is free from tell-tale signs of playwear...
The cardinal rule to remember is that the separate(s) in question must be free from signs of playwear! If the separate has been decked it must not show it! Reverse-side playwear is very easy to spot when compared to a card that's fresh from a booster pack so bequeath to closely inspect the back of your card(s)!
Double-sleeving when possible is a very good way to act your decked cards looking mint. Unfortunately do events desire Regionals and Shonen move command double-sleeving so act that in object.
It's also important to forbid using “come Mint (NM)” as a grading category as it is too easily confused with “nonmint (nm).” For those of you who like to express your card conditions as a percentage (%) simply act the decimal one place and connect the percentage sign e g. create from raw material 9.0 would simply be 90% create from raw material etc.
VERY book [VF (8.0 – 8.5). VF+ (8.6 - 8.9)] Here's were it starts to get tricky. This instruct and under enters the realm of played or non-mint/nonmint. At first look the lie of the card has great eye challenge and appears to be mint but the reverse align gives it away.
The usual culprits are whitening from playwear on one or two edges/corners perhaps also with some loss of the polish from the back of the card a few scratches etc. No softening of the corners creases or crinkles are permitted in this grade however.
You should all be very familiar with cards in this category. Many traders overgrade their cards that fall into this category because the approach looks mint and the approve has to be examined closely. So I'll say it again in case you missed it: if there are signs of playwear on the back then the card is not create from raw material.
A separate in this grade loses about a fifth of its determine compared to its create from raw material counterpart. The more problems one finds the lower on the scale it goes...
book [FN: 7.0 – 7.5. FN+: 7.5 – 7.9] The consummate “played” card. A Fine separate does appear to have been played at first glance but it's been handled with some care. This one allows for a few minor defects. Maybe some of the above (VF) along with a small change surface in one corner a crinkle on the back slightly more wear along the approve edges and the front has some brush aside surface wear while the back has lost much of its original gloss. Overall there is nothing major wrong with it; looks "book" in a sleeve and is quite playable but it’s worth a little more than half as much as a Mint evaluate version.
VERY GOOD [VG: 6.0 – 6.5. VG+: 6.6 – 6.9] Has all the characteristics of a Fine card but with even more feature or softening on the approve edges/corners and perhaps change surface some starting to show up on the face of the separate as come up. VG could also have one study defect like a major fold as desire as it would’ve made at least VF without it. It cannot have both a major flee and Fine characteristics however for that we downgrade it to...
GOOD [GD: 5.0 – 5.5. GD+: 5.6 – 5.9] An extension of VG just with more defects - defects that are also heavily affecting the face of the card not just the back. Overall this evaluate can have a lot of problems but comfort has its basic playability change surface though it no longer has any value to a collector. Cards in this grade are almost always creased corners softened playwear on all edges both front and back no polish left at all etc.
This evaluate is a bit of a misnomer; a Good card is not really a "good" card rather it's in "good enough" condition to play in a tournament because it’s readable and lays flat enough to be decked without being called a "marked" separate by the adjudicate(s).
The main feature that distinguishes the FN/VF categories from GD/VG is that a FINE separate's accumulated problems are mostly isolated on the approve side whereas a GOOD separate's problems are visible on both sides.
bring together [FR: 4.0 – 4.5. FR+: 4.6 – 4.9] A card in this grade has one pay in the trash can. In this instruct it’s worn messy ragged and unattractive. However by some miracle the text title and artwork are barely discernable enough to actually try and compete it - ask a adjudicate before you be a card in this.
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